Uberto Pitagora is a tailor I have not worked with. Per my last comment, my strong preference is for a natural non extended shoulder with minimal padding and no roping. Before the advent of sewing machines in the 18th century, all clothes were cut and sewn by hand similar to the way modern-day bespoke tailors work. Oxxford hand pads both the collar and the lapels. Are you in? A child of the Industrial Revolution, the Sack suit was the first-ever mass-produced tailored garment for men. Frank’s style is English and quite structured, with a particular fondness for country and shooting garments. There will certainly be some fans of bespoke who would rather deal directly with the cutter - as they would with Len, Frank or Joseph. He will be on there next time, with Luigi, Simon: Unlike a bespoke tailor, who I can try, review, and is still offering the same thing years later. It’s a very different take on bespoke suiting — much less fussy than Savile Row — but no less exacting. I have had the opportunity to try bespoke in Italy, In London and in Toronto but I always find my way back to Max. When I’m making a soft coat- Raphael’s shop. The only garments I have that really remind me of Frank’s work are vintage 1930s-40s. Then, several years later, I received a call from Joe Genuardi, a former apprentice of Joseph Centofanti’s, who had ventured out on his own out of an old factory in Hoboken, NJ. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jks5VHQ9Q0o. His expertise includes men’s shirts and suits, custom bespoke menswear clothing, tuxedos, top coats, women’s dresses, and wedding dresses. The Academy has the only dedicated program in the United States focused on teaching the traditional methods of soft structured tailoring at the highest sartorial standards. They offer both bespoke and made to measure. The company’s tailors take 18 measurements to make you the perfect bespoke tailored shirt designed to fit exactly the way you want. Established in 1977, Narry Tailors is one of the best value bespoke tailors in Bangkok. The natural shoulder remains and he and in darts and some gently suppression through the body. Alan David’s expertise lies in our 90+ years of measuring & pattern-making skills, ensuring a perfect fit the very first time. Leonard Logsdail is equally excellent, with a distinct look and a defined shape. What do you know about Rudolph Popradi, an Hungarian expat living in Montreal? I often use no pad. The shop was founded in 1771 and earned its reputation by dressing the British military and the royal family, and it continues to hold several royal warrants (even Prince William is a fan). Good Afternoon Simon. The one thing with goodfellas that I always liked were the collars of the shirts that when done up they came down and almost met in the middle covering the tie, do you know what this collar is called? Last question for the moment, have you ever had shirts by Alex Kabbaz? Germanicos Bespoke Tailors has been offering some of the most stylish bespoke suits Melbourne has to offer since 1999. Full canvas constructions. Customers do not have to worry about convincing me to listen to them. More importantly, Behr’s Hollywood style isn’t offered only at Hollywood prices. A.CARACENI - since 1946. I believe he offers truly bespoke as well as “custom.” He also has a decent collection of vintage fabrics. Just because one commenter alleged that you did not, and it is one half of my definition of bespoke being used here. Carbone Master Tailors take care of both men's, and women's tailoring at their sartoria. He has been running Crown Tailor since then and is making sure that the customer gets the best experience when they step in his shop. I don’t find the “angular” English fit particularly attractive personally. The classic sack suit is more of a RTW item. Reeves is most certainly not MTM, although I believe he used to do a MTM line several years back in addition to bespoke but he no longer does that. Britches Bespoke does the same bespoke pattern development and pads the chest by hand, but does the lapels by machine. The definitive story of the tailors, customers, and clothes of Savile Row, the international destination and renowned epicenter of gentlemen's style And so many claim to do work in NYC, but in truth they make in China at YZ and Red Collar. Of course I’m assuming that Oxxford now offers more modern looking garments. Frank makes proper bespoke, and does all the cutting and making himself - something many of these small tailors can do, even if they stop doing so when they get bigger. This way your readers, most of whom reside in the US (and probably most of that crowd is in NYC) have a legitimate review to go by. Thanks Mark, very helpful. I’ve had a jacket and a pair of trousers made by Manolo Costa and they were fantastic. Lovely, but not bespoke. Have you ever thought about bringing someone on who could do reviews of american taliors to then be published on your site? I asked him for a clarification, but so far no response. An Englishman who moved to the US, he has a lovely workshop on East 53 St and recently added his son, Leonard Jr, to the team. The Coat Route is a love song to things of lasting value. Praise for The Coat Route “A spirited tour of fashion history . . . Since its establishment, the company has opened a handmade bespoke workshop and a tailoring house in the iconic Yorkville neighborhood of Toronto, Canada. Certainly he didn’t train as a tailor. The LL cloth is fairly priced for what it is – it is significantly different from the normal run of the big mills : much more substantial and consequently more expensive. I can vouch for the extremely high quality and convenience. They cannot fathom getting a garment that is not made specifically for them, and they dismiss MTM as unacceptable.. Then there are other customers who are very happy with the MTM’s and who look terrific. VHS, I cannot always find my way around on here. I’m afraid Bill retired a while ago and then passed away more recently. Richard James and Timothy Everest only typically did one fitting as well, I cannot speak for other houses but that is their method. Digital Driver's Licenses: a Privacy Nightmare? I assume it means a largely handmade garment, using a unique paper pattern for the individual, and multiple fittings to refine the fit until the final product. Explore In-house programs. Kirk does offer full bespoke, but most suits are made with bespoke pattern development, just not bespoke level of handwork – so machine padded chests and lapels. Face TimePaying the premium for a bespoke suit grants you the privilege of meeting the craftsman making your suit, in most cases. I have commissioned a suit from Huntsman out of their New York atelier. Thank you for your time. However, it is less clear if it is a hand padded chest, or if there is anything else to your definition. This is the true-life story of a boy who quit school to become an apprentice on Savile Row, home to London's most venerable tailors, and wound up owning his own shop on the world-famous 'Golden Mile', where he hand-cuts exquisite suits for ... The overall scale and proportion is longer, fuller, and more shapely than most contemporary Italian coats I have seen or worn, with visually stronger shoulders, fuller sleeves, longer skirt and vents, and some drape through the chest and back. The tailor industry of South East Asia How to find the best tailor in Hoi An, Vietnam. Ultimately I took the garments to a superb alterations tailor and she was able to reduce the amount of shoulder padding and rework the shoulder to a more pleasing look. Steed visit USA frequently, and for my money make better and more consistently than any other Row tailor. But it’s my kind of niche. I offer some comment from experience with designer-led vs. cutter-led firms from personal experience. Len Logsdail is probably the best-known bespoke tailor in New York. 1. This is a section purely for tailors that readers have suggested and recommended in the comments below. The main issue is whether you are getting bespoke value for a bespoke price. This is your tailor from Hong Kong, to serve you better; we will be in the USA on our Sales trip. If the tailor comes four times a year, there is a shorter wait. Kathryn and others like Richard Anderson don’t have that much padding and structure – the difference from A&S is more in the sharp lines and lack of drape, The two sports coats I have are a shetland tweed and a finmeresco blazer. So not sure where the only MTM is coming from. Kathryn is quite similar to Richard Anderson, which you can see an example of here. He carries an extensive assortment of beautiful fabrics at various price points. On their website it now looks like they lowered their price range a lot for their RTW. Hi. In a new compact edition, a luxurious celebration of the elegant craftsmanship behind the timeless French men's fashion and lifestyle labels. Gear Patrol participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. Any insight is greatly appreciated. A bespoke suit has its own signature, feel, and look. How about Angel Bespoke or Alan David in New York City? I commissioned eight pieces including suits, sport coats, and a dinner suit over about 15 years with this firm. He cuts and makes his coats himself, and the result has soul in spades. No pad. Old Henry and Frank are one and the same, no? We showcase the men's tailoring Instagram accounts that are worth turning that follow button green. Boom. They sell bespoke and RTW shirts and socks. I’ve been lucky to keep the weight off so my size hasn’t changed much so the commissions now run much smoother. Talented people will be tempted to leave to set up on their own. Our groom’s attire and men’s wedding suits include summer linen suits perfect for beach wedding as well as super light weight light color suits best used outdoor. If you ever find yourself exploring the Philadelphia area, also consider looking up Perry Ercolino, a bespoke shoemaker in Doylestown. Our New York City based bespoke tailors create full custom suits, nothing is … I would just like to reiterate what others here have said. However I would like to present you a story of a tailor from Korea, place you … I am not familiar with his Siciian bespoke but the cloth club fabric has been fantastic imo. So Miller’s Oath can do full bespoke handwork, but most customers opt for the machine make as it’s so much cheaper. Nod bad. FittingsThe bespoke process usually involves several fittings between taking the original measurements and delivering the finished product. One wonders whether a proper visit is in order? He’d look like a ‘58 Cadillac otherwise. Our name is synonymous with the best quality Bespoke suits. Germanicos Bespoke Tailors. In my opinion it is superior to Brioni, Kiton, and Attollini. He left after a few years to work under his own name. The suit is finished and mailed to you. My style comes from what my hands draft from the classic Mitchell System lines. That’s why A&S appeals to me as they apparently don’t do that as much. Simon, I’ve been very much enjoying your blog for quit some time. Comments by actual customers I think would make for a better piece. Would they be considered bespoke or MTM. Some of his styles aren’t for me, but the classic tailoring is great, with nice touches like scooped side adjustors on the trousers. It’s also no coincidence that all these makers have more style than the traditional tailors. Partly due to demands for speed, or for value, different brands skip parts of the bespoke process. Strong , padded shoulders and a rope sleeve. Thanks Mark, I really appreciate your reply. Best, Without hijacking this article into about Oxxford, on the issues of style and cut, it is best to call the Oxxford store in New York City or a local Oxxford retailer. All the pieces I commissioned from the designer-led firm are still wearable and look good. Full canvas construction. Then later, separately and hopefully in detail, we can review their offering. There is NO bespoke tailor based in NYC who if transplanted to London, would merit a mention. Nowadays we tend to associate best tailors in the world with British Savile Row or Italian tailors, maybe French or Spanish tailoring houses too. He was my source for old old tweeds he would stumble upon. I always suggest to my customers they use him. Tepan’s mtm are in the $1200-$2000 range and the full bespoke start at $3400. Italy currently has more true bespoke-actually, more in the way of the truest bespoke tailors than every other country in the world. Frank also has great taste in cloth and can teach you a great deal on the subject. Does that make this suit inferior to Oxxford which hand sews both collar and lapels? I was told it wasn’t bespoke. I make any style the customer might want. Very astute comments. Thank you Simon. By some twist of fate, this role of conveyor has fallen to me. “House Style“ is overrated. What about the downtown NYC tailors such as Duncan Quinn and others? If anyone wants clarification- I do employ my own coat makers and trouser makers. However, my salesman did offer to make an excellent suit within Oxxford’s style vocabulary which the customer accepted. Savile Row trained, beautiful handwork and very passionate about making great garments. He was kind enough to make two suits for me (although he appeared to be essentially retired), among the very last that he crafted, out of gorgeous Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth, which he described as “a treat for a tailor.” The feeling that they give when worn is that you become invincible. Suits start at an unbelievable 5,000 … He is knowledgeable, generous and patient, whether you are a first time client as I was a decade ago, or a finicky regular which I have been since then. If so, I’d have them make a jacket and pants for my daughter also to see which style she prefers. Fitting. Any MTM can do a basted fitting. As to what tailors charge, there seems only a tenuous correlation between price & service across the civilised world. "To be one of a kind." http://www.thehopenyc.com. I would guess a considerable proportion of people who start with designer-led firms switch to cutter-led firms because they get better and more consistent quality. There are also workmanship differences. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misinformation. Hi Kirk. Davies visits four times a year. As one of the few true bespoke tailors left in Melbourne, Germanicos is renowned for producing the best fitting suits in town – which is precisely what you want in a tailor. If you needed proof of a cultural renaissance in a down-and-out city, there’s no better example than 1701. He did excellent work. I hope these links work, but this post I think people would find particularly interesting: https://www.instagram.com/p/BmOJK9Tnzyz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link. Bespoke suits are made using a specific pattern created for the buyer, capturing all of the nuances of the individual’s body. Duncan and Reeves both ship their work off to overseas production points and specialize in fitting them locally. I was fortunate enough to spend a weekend with Alexander Kabbaz in The Hamptons as I really wanted to learn from him, sadly that never happened. The place is famous for dressing Hollywood royalty like Gary Cooper and Cary Grant, and actually royalty, including the royal families of Greece and Italy, Prince Rainier of Monaco and, uh, Silvio Berlusconi. Oxxford would not fall within the bespoke tailors covered in this article in that it is produced in a factory rather than a tailor’s workshop. You cannot beat it for the value in my opinion. Daniel Webster is a fantastic guy and extremely knowledgeable of good cloth. With over 20,000 fabrics to choose from, I'd say that if you're ever in the area, or just want an extraordinary suit, Raja Fashions is where you should be. With more than 40 years' experience, Dominic Carbone tailors everything from classical styling to contemporary and visually striking ensembles. Rory is not in New York any more. I am very curious. Below is our Tour Schedule to indicate when we will be in your city. I cannot provide the specifics. Oxxford made a short promotional film which is on its home page as well as YouTube. "An in-depth study of Ivy style will be articulated this book, which will include essays by Patricia Mears, Dr. Peter McNeil, Dr. Christopher Breward, and Dr. Masafumi Monden. An old school shop. His look was youthful, cutting edge, elegant and sophisticated. If a true Bespoke suit is what your heart fancies, then I suggest you check the website of ww.rudolfpopradi.com probably one of the few remaining Bespoke tailors who can claim that his suits never leave his hands. Just to jump in Scott, yes A&S has less padding than the other Savile Row tailors. I like his suits very much and he is also a very good guy. His suits are in a more structured and modern style compared to the more drape-focused English-style tailors that tend to be in New York. There is an older generation - mostly Italian - that is now largely either retired or has passed away; and there are some young tailors trying to revive the craft - but that often lack experience. Soft natural shoulders. Raphael Raffaelli closed his shop 10 years ago; Vincent Nicolosi, Tom Wolfe’s tailor, has retired; and Bill Fiorvanti passed away in 2017. Rather like Whitcomb & Shaftesbury’s Classic Bespoke. I was curious to know where one can find your recent Robb Report article (Print? Fully made to measure, nothing bespoke. He then showed me (no surprise) a number of books of excellent suiting cloth (worsteds, high-twists, mohairs, etc. Cutting and tailoring require high skill levels that take a long time to acquire, as Simon writes. specifically on fittings, frankly after 20 years of doing this I do not need to do 5 fittings to get a suit right. If not, then the garments will continue to be ill fitting compared to the British and Italians, despite the excellent quality of the workmanship. Second, the more your measurements or posture differ from standard sizes, the more you should favor a cutter-led firm. He was a Roman style tailor, and he catered to a wealthy, power clientele. Bespoke tailoring is a recognized process that gives complete liberty to the customer, from the color and type of fabric to the handcrafted minute details. Here are the names to know when ordering your next bespoke suit. Occupying a prime position at No. 1 Savile Row, British tailor Gieves & Hawkes has outfitted every British monarch since George III so you know you're in safe hands. But still nice to add at some point, Cad and the Dandy are now in New York full time and I’ve been getting all of my suits and trousers from them for the last five years. 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