Is your judgment because seersucker fails to fulfill criteria for trouser cloth, or because because seersucker has attributes which disqualify it? Not sure if this is in keeping with the 'style' of the jacket or if it is a one-off, but I can probably only wear it with a short-sleeve shirt because the arms are so tight. As for blazers and blazer buttons, I’d say your first blazer should be single-breasted and the second one double-breasted. It’s helpful if they can hold a mobile phone and a slim card holder. I’m definitely going to commission something in the next few weeks to see what sort of fit I can get. You'll need one of these at pretty much all ages, in fact. I think you’re right, those are the two types, and the Real M ones are more of a beige really. Flannel is the best – less for its weave and more for its finish. Looks at the James Bond films and their impact on male fashion My favourite trouser colour at the moment. For those afraid of the possible nautical and/or 1980s connotations, avoid a navy blazer on top and go for grey cashmere, perhaps in a nice herringbone. Found inside"-- James A. Cox, The Midwest Book Review - Wisconsin Bookwatch "If you can't figure out how to use your brain after reading this guide, you may want to return your brain for another. I’d say that it is Chris, except for more casual trousers like chinos. Hi Simon. But I am not sure what odd jackets to wear. Thanks Mike. Thank you very much in advance. At the Sotheby's auction house in Hong Kong, a man in a dark blue suit shouted into a microphone as hands kept raising, pushing the price of Zao Wou-Ki's triptych masterpiece, Juin-Octobre 1985, ever higher.Initially commissioned by I.M. I’d say try charcoal first, and possibly a pale grey. Unfortunately, they’re both quite bulky but this is the size I’m going to need if I want to carry all of my stuff in one bag. These shoes are best with either a leather or a slim rubber or Dainite sole. Guess I’ll have to go back and look at each one closer. That’s a starting price of only £250 for the cheapest price band, i.e. Fabulous – well done Simon and well done Calvo de Mora! I think in addition there’s almost another article calling out to be written ,”Shirts / tops to wear with odd jackets “. Please could you advise the fabric details of the charcoal flannel trousers from Elia Caliendo and also suggest a light grey fabric for flannels which you already have? I didn’t design any of the colours, but I believe there is some black in the weave which is what gives it an unusual cast. It’s certainly possible, but it’s hard to pull off – shirt, jacket and tie must all be more casual than those you would normally wear with a suit or smarter trousers. I worn a couple of my VBC 110s worsted wool trousers and none of them look right right it…. The heavy texture could be a herringbone or a hound’s-tooth. I’m trying to expand beyond the dreaded demin and although I have two pairs of cords, tan and navy, would like to experiment with flannels, linens and others. From a military commander's perspective, the role of psychological operations (PSYOP) in the successful planning and execution of modern military operations is absolutely essential. It really is a great find! The prewar standards in menswear had been relaxed, and Bond broke protocols that many well-dressed men today still believe should be followed. Everyday elegance for the everyman. They show the wearer has literally gone the extra inch to . The anonymous style buff known as Voxsartoria has amassed an eviable collection of stylish photos on his site. We have personally delivered over 3500 groom's outfits. I would love to add this extra level to the outfit, but the examples I have seen online so far have not convinced me. Click below to download our 3 most popular eBooks, free. I think these would be a little too sleek for that, My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer, The Western shirt four ways (with Begg & Co cardigan), Hey Bill, No problem. Hi Simon, I find it works ok – certainly on this and my C&M suit (and the C&M one is much thicker, being a heavier cloth. I am in the market for grey flannels right now and Nashville does not have any good bespoke tailors that I am aware of. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I’d say that beige colour is smarter and more versatile. It will be very much appreciated. Even though this one was a bit more money than the others, it is SO worth it. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2008/08/on-double-breasted-waistcoats.html. Hey Simon, how versatile is a pair of dark brown crispaire as an odd trouser? I agree with your comment about the importance of fit, though. Or rather something else would look better. Ones i would recommend include Drake’s, though, and No Man Walks Alone (Rota or Eidos). Most pictures have studio quality and the makeup is pieces from film stills, publicity . Beyond colours, any thoughts on using texture and patterns in trousers? And of the other two, I’d say probably dark green moleskin. So if I’m 5 feet 7 inches and don’t want to draw attention to this fact I may be better off going for a suit in a casual colour or texture than a sport coat/ odd trouser ensemble? Jon deBoise, the older brother of Edwin deBoise from Steed. Found insideAn original, endlessly thought-provoking, and controversial look at the nature of consciousness and identity argues that the key to understanding selves and consciousness is the "strange loop," a special kind of abstract feedback loop ... Over the next couple of weeks I plan to invest in a good leather bag I can use for it every day. – Smedley waistcoat can work very well underneath the jacket, as can a cardigan. I have a pair made from a VBC hopsack, which has plenty of texture and which screams “informal”. Do you intend to wear this only on its own? Simon answered it. Models from classic British makers are often heavier and chunkier than your average dress shoe and thus look better with heavy fabrics like flannel, tweed, and denim. Sounds tricky. My investigation has revealed mostly good things about them although inevitably on the internet there’s always the odd negative comment. I have been using your capsules to expand my wardrobe – thank you! But then anything that breaks up the jacket also helps – patch pockets and contrasting buttons, such as metal, mother of pearl or light-coloured horn. They would be too soft to hold the crease at all, Simon, kindly advise me if mid-gray flannel trousers would work with cream heavy cotton safari jacket? I do like single pleats, but they tend to accentuate my slim build, making me look pencil thin. I am guessing probably hard to match with Blazers. Have a look at the ‘three good, three bad’ post. Pair up your twill joggers with a crisp T-shirt, bomber jacket and dress sneakers. If your jacket has more buttons, it's going to squeeze the shirt together tighter so the shirt's opening will be closed and look less casual. Do you consider your advice concerning “sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser” is useful for short men? I’ve heard mixed things about C&D, but that’s perhaps inevitable with somewhere that offers so many different levels of work. Some shade of grey should work though, whether very light or very dark. The belt and box pleats disappeared, the pockets were cut smaller, leather buttons were replaced with horn versions — and the odd jacket was born. Your input would be much appreciated. Found insideRobert Heinlein's Hugo Award-winning all-time masterpiece, the brilliant novel that grew from a cult favorite to a bestseller to a science fiction classic. I will probably wear grey flannel trousers, beige chinos and a light-coloured shirt. So, in your opinion, a good starting point for a rotation of casual chinos would be a pair of navy chinos and a pair of dusty khaki/beige chinos? Thanks! In the Connery, Lazenby and Moore years, James Bond dressed in a style that came very much out of the 1960s. Green can also work well if it’s dark enough; tan can be very versatile but the subtleties of the shade make all the difference; black should be avoided at all costs. A bit of cashmere or a slightly more brushed finish avoids them looking like one half of a suit. Could/should a cardigan ever be worn underneath the jacket or only as part of a 2pc? However, I would also suggest going for corduroy first, and if you love it, nothing wrong with having both in cords. I know you prefer black shoes for charcoal suits, but what do you wear with charcoal trousers? That won’t be for a while, but sure. We create lasting relationships with our clientele and develop a deep trust by understanding their colours & personal style. I use Press2Dress now in south London. It would be a thing of beauty. Do bear in mind that what you’ll get is not chinos as we know them today, but tailored cotton trousers. On the dark green, I’d stay away from wool/silk/linen for trousers generally. Country Clothes & Odd Jackets. I’m no expert on womenswear, but I certainly wouldn’t wear those together or recommend a man to do so. I don’t really wear moleskin or cotton cav twill so can’t comment effectively on either I’m afraid, Wanted to ask: Apart from the typical array of greys (light-mid-charcoal), what color in wool (excluding navy) could one consider making up as an odd trouser for office wear? Where in the above “scheme” would you rank the W Bill cashmere jacket GB made for you? Maybe people extrapolate from that to wear coloured waistcoats with other clothes, although I haven’t seen such a thing. After some initial hesitation, I had some grey flannels made by Thom Sweeney and the combination of slim cut and frog mouth pockets definitely counters any old-manishness. I didn’t realize that because none of my waistcoats have lapels or collars, and my only connection to the shops where I buy my clothes is by Internet, where description and photography cannot replace a first-hand education. It’s up to you what style you want Don – adding pleats or turn-ups will both be more unusual, turn-ups also perhaps more casual. In particular, Track #2, "Country Living" features a silky guitar solo over an already greasy, funk-nasty groove (the words that came to my mind as I listened) laid down by Jimmy Haslip (bass)and Marcus Baylor (drums). Otherwise there’s too great a risk that you make too many compromises and you don’t like two of the end results, Hi Simon – if buying brown and green (dark) trousers, (one moleskin, one corduroy), is there a particularly way around you would recommend? Thank you very much and look forward to reading future articles. Jules Verne's Tomb in Amiens. Advice requested on fabric for trousers | Styleforum. What kind and color of pants would you choose to combine with the jacket? They work well with anything from Harris Tweed in all its shades, to a plain white shirt and charcoal sweater. Hi Simon, I recently picked up (thrift / vintage) a RL SB navy blazer (notch lapels with two buttons). Fourth, something for the summer – a tan linen or cotton gabardine. It would be fairly versatile yes, and work with those colour choices. Following a recent request from a reader for a guide to colours in separate trousers, here’s my top five. Have a look at my Calvo de Mora jacket here: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/02/calvo-de-mora-donegal-jacket.html. You said that navy would be your fall back option for a pair of casual trousers and that navy typically works better with chinos rather than a wool. Found insideDressing the Man is the definitive guide to what men need to know in order to dress well and look stylish without becoming fashion victims. Alan Flusser's name is synonymous with taste and style. Bleak Expectations -- The Rising Threat -- A Certain Eventuality -- Dread -- Blood and Dust -- The Americans -- Love Amid the Flames -- One Year to the Day -- Epilogue. Would a 420g mustard( hint of olive)colour cotton twill from Holland and sherry be useful to have in a trousers as I have seen you wear with blue denims? How do you manage these at seemingly very spontaneous occasions? Or would you wear it as an odd waistcoat under a jacket? My budget is basically as low as is realistic for a fully leather bag. Sits just fine. When nothing else seems to work on the lower half, go for charcoal. One is from Patrick Grant’s budget brand, the other is from Simon Carter. However, you have previously espoused the merits of a double breasted waistcoat and wonder if you feel the same today and/or think it would make sense here? The jacket is from Thom Sweeney. I am thinking of having my first odd jacket made and I really like the look of the dark blue one with the blue windowpane check shown at the top of the article. The only thing restraining its use will be that it is a fairly strong colour, Thanks Mike. – Mussel shell buttons? It also feels vaguely European. Great advice as always Simon. Or is there only a small extent for a double breasted to be dressed down given that the style is already quite formal? For me, I think single-breasted waistcoats WITHOUT lapels look better. A question. Which color and material of trousers are suitable for this jacket? Would it do as a first “light grey”? I’ve learned from this very blog that you shouldn’t be afraid to get things altered. Make sure it is definitely casual enough to be worn with a suit though. Discover how to how to dress sharp, command confidence and earn more money. simon, while looking for a new odd jacket ive begun to look at the type and weight of wools used to judge where and when it may be suitable to wear. (Like the one pictured – from J.Crew). I’d consider cream for a summer blazer. Have a search and you’ll find the posts on it. Spend extra money on adjustments rather than cashmere. . The cream chinos I suppose, but like BespokeNYC I’m still hesitating a bit, and would rather get tobacco or navy chinos. I always wear a waistcoat with my jacket. You’re more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well. Found insideIn The Family Upstairs, the master of “bone-chilling suspense” (People) brings us the can’t-look-away story of three entangled families living in a house with the darkest of secrets. The cuff is mostly decorative, but it can add unique character to one's dinner jacket, suit jacket, odd . First, let's talk about how the width of a tie is supposed to work in a "permanent stylish" sense. More on Calvo de Mora, who are a great value Spanish tailor, here. Women’s opinions and associations on traditional menswear are often odd and subjective. You have previously advised against wearing a suit jacket on its own. Too suit-y? (I’m sure Steven could do a much better job of describing the design than me so I’d definitely recommend asking him about it if you see him…). Sorry for so many questions! . Thanks in advance! I note you missed how the pinstripe jacket pairs well with tracksuit bottoms (from your 18 May 2012 post). Just spotted your comment on not being able to find a good navy wool for trousers. I’m a bit late to this post, but I was wondering what jacket colors you wear with charcoal pants. A week you ever wear a jacket with contrasting buttons placed close to durability! I loved the fabric, the jackets should reflect this in their cloth i.e., )! 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